Thursday, March 8, 2012

Surfing: a metaphor for life

With all corniness intended, surfing is a metaphor for life.

There you are, bobbing up and down in a vast expanse of space.  You know that something is out there- in fact, you are certain that an overwhelming number of somethings are out there- things you can't even begin to imagine.  The ocean hosts a multitude of microcosms that are both living in symbiosis while at the same time unable to comprehend the complexity of all that surrounds them.

And there you are, bobbing up and down in a vast expanse of space.  You can make out something on the horizon, some subtle change, the butterfly effect of a winter storm off the coast of Alaska thousands of miles away that happened weeks ago.  But it's hard to be certain how this might impact you in this instant or the next, because as you are bobbing up and down in a vast expanse of space, you can only catch fragmented glimpses of these nuanced changes.

As your legs dangle in the crystalline waters below you they cease to be a part of your conscious world and they enter an oceanic netherworld whose residents make the fairyland absurdities of goblins and elves seem as everyday as traffic jams and income tax.

The culmination of a million factors beyond the collective comprehension of the most astute chaos theorists is a single wave.  And it is coming right for you.  Your legs are employed to join your conscious realm once again as they,  accompanied by your arms,  execute a sort of wild and spastic pre-surf dance ritual.  The wave raises you towards its apex, tauting gravity to show its strength by tearing you back down into the trough.

But you're ready.  You stand up on your board and use the inconceivably mighty forces of the ocean and the Earth to do your bidding by propelling you forward.  You smile with a Cheshire grin as the wave breaks behind you, toppling the magic balancing act that had allowed you to defy the very forces of nature that weaves together the fabric of space and time. 

And once again, there you are, bobbing up and down in a vast expanse of space.

Cross training

SUPing (Stand-up paddling) - the new rage

Fish 1 - Jon 0

An old fashioned fiesta

I spun him around maybe 15 times :)

Let it rain! (note that we stopped using blindfolds to expedite candy consumption)

By day 10, we upgraded to a legit long board

Ten days of hard work

Looking bored on the small stuff

Jon enjoying a (very rare) lone moment at Los Cerritos

The taste of success is o' so sweet

Another full moon in baja to the East
Another perfect sunset to the West

1 comment:

  1. I am so jealous. We miss you guys, but it sure looks like you are having a blast.

    Love you!
    Antie Cheryl

    ReplyDelete